Ancestral Influence & Aprons
Written by Margaret B. Russell, handweaver from Byfield, Massachusetts who participated in and visited Northern Ireland for the Linen Biennale 2023.
Linen on the Loom. Photo Margaret B. Russell
My looms and I share an infatuation with the fibers that we spend our days and nights with. To my core, I am a texture and sentimental weaver. It is the robust fibers, raw and untethered, the storied fibers, filled with history and emotion, that make my heart beat even faster. The affection between this weaver, her looms, and her fibers is a love story. A union clearly defined by my pieces. All are woven exclusively of natural fibers and intrinsically feature the timeless beauty of simple functional design.
Linen is consistently on at least one of my looms, so in 2022, after reading about Linen Biennale 2023 in that Summer’s issue of The Journal for Weavers, Spinners, and Dyers, I contacted R-Space Gallery about submitting a piece. I was advised to send on an expression of interest form for the gallery’s consideration. With crossed fingers, I sent the synopsis for Ancestral Apron, a work apron, that would be hand-stitched from my handwoven linen fabrics. This is a piece that I had long planned to create but was waiting for the right time to do so.
When I sit at a loom, I can easily envision several ancestors lined up behind me. They are taking turns looking over my shoulders to see what I am weaving. These are the makers and creators in the family, and they greatly influence my work.
A strongly felt presence is William Truland, a linen weaver and my 3x great grandfather, born in Ballymoney, County Antrim, in 1796. He came to Rensselaer County, New York, in the 1820s, working as a weaver there for the rest of his life. I was born and grew up in the same part of Upstate New York. I am the next and only handweaver in my family since William. The work I do as a weaver of over 40 years, and the name of my studio and study, Antrim Handweaving, are in tribute to him. For others to see Ancestral Apron would pay additional homage to William, plus honor my other industrious forebears, a historic fiber, and the qualities of strength and resilience they all share.
Upon hearing from R-Space Gallery that Ancestral Apron was accepted for a group exhibition, one of my Macomber floor looms and I got to work. We used an assortment of naturally colored linen yarn, made in Northern Ireland, to weave a selection of three fabrics. All were plain weave, as the focus was the various textures that occur by using different weights of linen, rather than different woven patterns. I collect new old stock linen yarns made in Northern Ireland. It is a search for my preferred linen that gets more and more difficult to find as the years progress, so these yarns are reserved for very special pieces. For garment design, I used an original 1914 May Manton “Work Apron” sewing pattern, showing a full-length front and back with side belting. According to early 20th century advertisements in the Troy Times newspaper (Troy, New York), William Truland’s grandson and granddaughter-in-law carried May Manton patterns in their dry goods store in Lansingburgh, now part of the City of Troy. This is where William also lived and worked as a weaver. I felt the use of the pattern continued to highlight this direct line of ancestral descent.
My stitching thread was a fine weight linen yarn, also new old stock and made in Northern Ireland. Hand-stitching was a self-challenge, a first for me to stitch an entire garment by hand, especially one of my own handwoven fabrics. During my searches for linen yarns, I found some new old stock Belfast Mills linen fabric. I decided to make the tape encasing the inner rough seam edges from this cloth. It only seemed right that some of this legendary mill woven fabric became part of the apron. Mother-of-pearl buttons, selected from my mother’s long-time collection, were placed on Ancestral Apron’s belt. The buttons added participation by another generation in the family line from William Truland to me.
Ancestral Apron – woven and constructed by Margaret B. Russell
Displayed in the Common Threads Exhibition at Island Arts Centre for the Linen Biennale 2023
Photographer Credit: Neal Campbell
In July of 2023, Ancestral Apron safely traveled to R-Space Gallery for the Common Threads exhibition at Island Arts Centre, Lisburn during August. This opportunity became additionally meaningful when I was able to visit Northern Ireland in mid-August, specifically Lisburn and surrounding areas, during Linen Biennale 2023. I will never forget the feeling of walking into Gallery 2 at Island Arts Centre, being warmly greeted by Jayne and Tracey, and seeing Ancestral Apron once again but now in the land of my Northern Ireland forebears. Then to walk through both galleries, immersed in positively stunning linen pieces of all design and desire, connected me even more to a fiber that is so much a part of who I am. What a first day, and this was only the beginning of a most treasured and momentous week.
To finally have the opportunity to meet and spend time visiting with Robert and Meadhbh at R-Space Gallery will always be deeply appreciated and fondly remembered. Patrick, Alison, and Angus at Irish Linen Centre & Lisburn Museum generously shared their linen stories and knowledge. There was a day trip to Ulster Folk Museum for their inaugural Festival of Making, in which there was great celebration of Northern Ireland’s traditional crafts and heritage. During a trip to Belfast, the staff at The Linen Hall Library offered limitless genealogical assistance and resources. Then there was the long-awaited day visit, via NI Railways, to ancestral Ballymoney and its museum, with staff member Jamie giving freely of her time to provide more information about family and their linen connections.
Aside from rail, travel was entirely by taxi, which became personal tours. Drivers, especially Sean, Gavin, and Luke, talked about the country they love and through our talks, offered their thoughts on life in Northern Ireland. Many additional people throughout this visit left me with unforgettable conversations. Each day was wonderfully serendipitous and provided many adventures. It was very difficult to say farewell to Northern Ireland and its people.
Because of R-Space Gallery and the Linen Biennale, I was able to achieve weaving and ancestral aspirations that most likely would not have occurred otherwise or certainly not to the depth I experienced. I am already looking forward to Linen Biennale 2025 as I hope once again be involved with this celebration of linen and to spend more time with the people of Northern Ireland. In the meanwhile, my looms and I will continue to add to our story of using and promoting a very loved, honored, and kindred fiber.
